FLIEGERSTATION BERLIN-FRIEDRICHSFELDE: KARLSHORST HANGARS-ON

It sure is quiet now, a lot quieter than before when brash planes used to roar in and roar out of the Flugzeughallen, commanding attention like the demanding machines they were.

It’s been a while since their glory days at Fliegerstation Berlin-Friedrichsfelde in Karlshorst. The six Flugzeughallen with their 16 distinctive domed canopies (there used to be 18) are done too, it seems. Their time has passed, their future insecure. All around them is being converted to apartments.

The hangars were constructed to Josef Rank’s plans between 1916-17 for the former Fliegerstation Berlin-Friedrichsfelde, according to Christina Czymay of the Landesdenkmalamt Berlin, which allegedly exists to protect buildings of historical importance.

A single-track railway line was built to service the airfield from Kaulsdorf to the northeast in 1917. Newspapers reported at the time that freight trains were running day and night and that a second line could be built. However, rail fares became too expensive and it all came to nothing. The underused track was eventually done away with in the early 1930s.

The land was previously used by Siemens-Schuckert for building airships. Wilhelm von Siemens began constructing and testing airships here in 1907. People spoke of “Flugplatz Biesdorf” (Biesdorf Airfield) and “Flughafen Karlshorst” (Karlshorst Airport) but let’s just stick with “Fliegerstation Berlin-Friedrichsfelde” for simplicity’s sake.

Later it became known as “Militärflugplatz Friedrichsfelde” (Friedrichsfelde Military Airfield).

Apparently the hangars feature a remarkably early use of reinforced concrete – in contrast to most at the time that were constructed using wood or iron – and they provide important architectural relics of aviation history, particularly that of military aviation.

Czymay suggests in her paper on the Flugzeughallen that the hangars’ preservation is even more important because similar facilities at Döberitz and Jüterbog were deconstructed after World War I due to the Versailles Treaty (1919), which prohibited Germany’s use of aircraft.

The Karlshorst hangars survived, though they were quiet for a while, until the Nazis took over and revived the area’s militarial tendencies by constructing the Pionierschule (Pioneer school) at Zwieseler Straße.

Nearly 20 buildings were constructed, including the main building with classrooms and a large auditorium. There were also sports facilities including a swimming pool and riding school, as well as garages for motorized vehicles. Lessons began on April 1, 1937. Apt.

The Soviets took over after the next war of course, and they made good use of the Nazis’ facilities, turning Karlshorst into their military administration HQ for Germany (SMAD). There’s talk of the Stasi and the German wing of the KGB having facilities here. Who knows? Wikileaks haven’t released the Karlshorst Cables yet.

I’m not sure what the Russians did with the Flugzeughallen in this time, perhaps they even used them, but they left them anyway once they departed in 1994.

Czymay said that the Karlshorst hangars’ preservation wasn’t guaranteed, despite their protected status. It seems Denkmalschutz really is a toothless tiger.

Despite the tiger’s worthless roars, there are plans to convert the historical hangars into apartments as part of the “Gartenstadt Karlshorst” housing complex that’s consuming the area. Nothing is sacred. But the hangars are still hanging on for now.

LOCATION AND ACCESS (HOW TO FIND GUIDE)

  • What: Old airplane hangars belonging to the former Fliegerstation Berlin-Friedrichsfelde, later Militärflugplatz Friedrichsfelde, an airfield that was turned to military use as people got more militant for various reasons back in the day.

  • Where: Köpenicker Allee, Karlshorst, 10318 Berlin, Germany.

  • How to get there: Get the S-Bahn to Karlshorst or cycle if it’s a nice day, follow the signs for the excellent Deutsch-Russisches Museum (the building where Germany surrendered for a second time after World War II, to the Soviets), and turn right onto Köpenicker Allee before you get to the museum (or go to it too, it’s worth a visit), cycle down the road a bit and take your first left. The hangars will be hanging on to your right. Here’s a map to make it even easier.

  • Getting in: Find where there’s a gap in the fence close to a pole. It’s pretty obvious, just look where someone has lifted it up. Do, however, take great care on the other side of the fence as there’s a giant hole lurking that could smash up your ankle if you weren’t watching your step. Then proceed through the foliage and you’re in. You could also climb over the wall as I did on my first visit before I noticed the easier way on my second.

  • When to go: Daytime is best for sightseeing, darkness for naughty behavior that might be frowned upon by middle-aged Germans. Builders are busy out the front during the day so you’ll need to avoid them. They’re not there on Sundays though.

  • Difficulty rating: 3/10, quite easy. Just keep the head down, stay quiet, and you’ll be fine.

  • Who to bring: Like-minded explorers, budding street artists.

  • What to bring: Bier, wodka, whiskey or tequila. A camera if you want to take pictures, food if you want to eat, a stick to beat off the toothless tiger.

  • Dangers: Builders out the front, nosy industrial neighbors, Polizei. No need for too much concern. Deer roam the grounds but they’re more afraid of you than you need to be of them. The scariest thing here is the crazy echo of your tiptoes as you tiptoe o o o o o o o through the hangars.

Filed 29/10/2015 | Updated 11/11/2015

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